It is somewhat of a time consuming job. The body and hood spacers went in ok. The gas tank was the biggest problem with shimming it down and clearing/centering the driveshaft. Probably need longer straps even with the 1-inch spacers.

The steering intermediate shaft was not a problem. No notching of the firewall with the 1 inch, but its close. No noticable shaft binding.

The tranfer/trans linkage did have to be readjusted.

On the outside, it is definitely neat looking and gives the vehicle more altitude. The airlift brackets are whimpy looking, kind of neat in a way. The brushguard (which I was going to make a new of anyway) can barely be seen from the drivers seat. The rear muffler in the gassers sticks down a bit--unprotected.

Conclusion: Definitely a good mod. Would do it again, myself this time on a sunny summer saturday when there is plenty of time and no rush. I would do an 2-inch lift and work out notching the firewall and adjusting the linkages. Still at 2-inch spacers --no ctis, steering shaft or harness changes should have to be done. Would get longer tank straps and delrin tank spacers. I hope the 42 x 15 inch tires fit. Might have to stick with 40s.

Now on to the top of frame mounted rear sway bar project--plenty of space for bar brackets now.

BTW when we talk about lift we are actually talking about the spacers thickness, since the stock 1-inch bushing is reused. It is actually a 2-inch (in this case) lift, or 1 inch above stock. The 96 and 97 have a 1/2-3/4 lift spacers in them since the small spacers seem to sink into the bushing since they are smaller in diameter than the bushing. Anyhow the 2 inch should be all one needs to put in 42-inch swampers (not tested yet with snow plow springs) and give plenty of room underhood for TBI riser, flow plate mods, direct port injection, supercharger ect. The trans cooler tubing and O2 sensor will also not rub under the hump anymore. The Exhaust will have better clearance less close to the top of the hump.

Tips:

• It is best to take the steering shaft boot out before you raise the body to avoid tearing the boot.

• You need to relocate the boot so the shaft is centered at the end. A piece of sheet alum will need to be placed on the bottom (riveted) to close the hole and the top of the hole grinded or cut. Everything will need to be sealed.

• You will need grade 8 zinc bolts about 2 inches longer (for the 2-inch spacers) than stock with new locknuts. The spacer with the 2 cuts is for the fronts. The left front spacer needs a bolt going in from the top and length shimmed with washers from the top. If you do not and torque too much you may snap the body mount. The right front may be a pain to get in. The stock grommets get used in its same location.

The hood spacers - black delrin is straight forward. Just longer bolts. The tank spacers (white) go longwise side to side following the tank straps--above the tank, below the body. Just drop the tank a little to slide in the spacers in. I dont think you need to remove the driveshaft, but it would make it easier to see what is going on. Watch the fuel line it may need to be lengthened. It is best that the tank strap be lengthened at the center of the bottom by 2 inches. If you dont want to do that, just longer bolts will probably work. Make sure the T of the strap goes as far laterally and on the right side of the retaining tab (inside the groove) to keep the tank forced against the right frame rail (this is for the front strap). I used a crowbar at this point with light pressure. The back strap could be lengthened by putting a block in or the above.

That should be it. For a pro like you it should be simple. Would like to hear the details.

ms

I talked to the Maurice in California whose shop put a 6-inch lift on a Hummer 3 years ago. He put in 3-inch body spacers combined with custom springs. He was not sure, but he didn't think he had to mess with the ctis, wiring harness. He also was not sure of the firewall and tank mods, which I would think would be mandatory. Bye Bye airlift brackets.

Personally I like the idea of changing out those sagging springs for an additional 3 inches of height with taller springs at the 1500 spring rate (snow plow rating).

One could test the waters a cheap way by putting in one of those coil spring stablizers (a rubber-nylon spacer ring on the base of the spring coil) for a 2-inch lift (Whitney has them). There are also coil adjusters (metal) and inserts (rubber) that can

The only limitation to the spring methods are the angle of the ball joints, angle of the constant velocity joints, the extendedness of the splines within the halfshafts and the camber adjustment.

The additional 3 inches comes from the 42 x 15-16.5 swampers.

All combined that comes to:

• 3 inches--body lift
• 3 inches--extra spring lift-
• 3 more inches of tire height from ground to spindle (about 7 inches in total height - diameter - over the GSA or MT).
• 9 inches total

If stock is 16 inches of ground clearance and one adds 9 more inches, that comes to 25 inches of ground clearance. And the 42" swampers should fit without problem - without modifying the fenders or switching to wider wheels.

ms