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Installing Military LED Lights on an H1:

These instructions are for the LED versions, but my set (Riverside mfg.) did not have the '3' wires you refer to, but a 4 wire assy. Hmm..anyhow, here it is..

Front LED Lights:

Materials needed:

  • 4 stainless 3/8b x 3/8 Bolts
  • 4 military-to-civilian conversion wire (military connector plug to a GM weatherpac plug m/f)

The connector pins/wire markers out of the LED Military light is as follows:

  A.   20 is CatEye light
  B.   61 is the Turn Signal
  C.   491 is the Parking Light
  D.   GND is the Grounding Wire.

The military connector is anything but standard and certainly not compatible with the vehicle harness so you will eventually need to use the wire conversions (pig tails) that consist of a military plug and a GM weatherpac plug that match the civilian harness.

  1. To remove the front lights, you will need to remove the back cover of the wiring access panel. 4 bolts will hold the cover in place.
  2. Unplug the two connectors to your lamp, one should be red, and the other brown.
  3. To remove the lamp, you will find 2 bolts holding the mounting plate that the lamp is mounted to. A ground wire is connected to one of the two bolts. Disassemble.
  4. Install the new light housing bracket using the 2 stainless 3/8x3/4b? bolts and adding a rubber gasket or a feasible spacer to add the correct back spacing between the hood and the housing. CAUTION: if you do not use spacers, you run the risk of damaging the light housing and Hood.
  5. Run the Pig Tails of the LED unit through the access hole , and make sure one of the two bolts has the ground wire connected to it.
  6. Connect the single tab wire (491) of the military lamp to the brown wire, using the military-to-civilian conversion wire included. This should be your parking lamps. You should be able to turn on the parking lights and to make sure the parking lamp is lit.
  7. Connect the single tab wire (461) from the military lamp to the red wire using the military-to-civilian conversion wire. This should be your turn signal lamp.
  8. The third wire with 3 tabs (20) on it is the BlackOut lamp. In most cases for civilian us, it will not be connected, BUT you can tap into the (461) wire so it will light with the Turn signal giving it a different look. CAUTION: 20 can NOT be tapped in into the 491 because it will disable the turn signal.
  9. Ground the grounding wire to one of the housing bolts between a washer
  10. Bolt LED unit into light housing and test to make sure all is working
  11. Place cover back on with the 4 bolts

Rear LED Lights:

Materials needed:

  • 4 - 3/8 x B>
  • 16 - 3/16 rivets or #10-32 stainless button head allen bolts with nuts
  • 8 - Male military connectors
  • 2 - Reverse lights

  1. Remove the bucket rivets by first using a drift punch or a drill bit to drive out the center steel pins from the outside-in, then drill off the heads with a 1/4 in drill. Hold or clamp the 3 fingers of the rivet inside the back fender wells before drilling. Removing the rear side marker buckets makes wiring access a bit easier.
  2. The military connector is anything but standard and certainly not compatible with the vehicle harness so you will eventually need to convert the civilian wire harness to the Military style plugs. The connector pins/wire markers out of the LED Military light is as follows:
    1. 21 is the parking light wire
    2. 22 is the Brake and Turn signal
    3. 23 is the Reverse Cateye
    4. 24 is the Cateye Turn signal
    5. GND is the grounding wire.
  3. The old stock square light has a two pin plug with a brown wire (tail light) and a white wire (backup)
  4. The one pin plug has a red wire(brake / turn)
  5. Splice wires accordingly:
    1. RED to 22 AND 24 (this will light up the CatEye during braking and Signaling)
    2. BROWN to 21
    3. WHITE to 23 and to a new Reverse light, since the your new LED tail lights doesnb?t have a reversing light built into them.
  6. Be careful about the three ground wires attached to the old tail lamp stud. you will need to ground these wires and the (E) wire to a new place on the body/frame or the existing ground stud.
  7. I recommend using #10-32 stainless hardware to mount the new buckets. I prefer to use a button head allen bolt for a cleaner look.
  8. I Recommend 3/8 UNC x 3/4 Inch stainless bolts for the light housing adapter to the LED Assembly.

HUMV8R


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