This is how I clean my Hummer:

Step #1 - Electric powered pressure washer $110 at Lowes Hardware Store. I start by lifting the hood of the Hummer and getting the crud off of the underbody of the hood and cleaning the radiators. Stay away from electrical components with the pressure washer. :) The water is OK, the pressure on them isn't. Degreasers will also clean up a bit if you need to really get it clean.

Step #2 - Close the hood and then pressure wash every inch of the Hummer, and getting inside of the wheels and the outsides as well. Cleaning above the tires to get the underbody a bit is also a requirement.

Step #3 - Set pressure washer to soap mode and use any car wash liquid washer. Soap the entire Hummer.

Step #4 - Change nozzle of pressure washer to the scrubber, this is like a brush that releases soap as well as scrubs. This is good for getting the nasty dirt. Scrub every inch including the tires.

Step #5 - Rinse the entire body and underneath to remove all suds.

Step #6 - Use chammoy (spelling may be wrong). They may cost $15-$20 for a large one but are well worth it. Use the chammoy to remove all water from the Hummer.

Step #7 - Use a non-silicone based tire wetter to spray the tires. Once the tires dry, then clean your rims with old fashioned paper towels or a towel you don't need any longer. DO NOT USE CHAMMOY ON TIRES.

Step #8 - Use regular armor-all on the tarp if you have one. Spray it on thick and rub it around, let it dry for about 20 minutes prior to driving. It looks funny before it's dry, this is normal.

Step #9 - Very important not to be missed step! Since the Hummer was washed so well, there's now no grease on the tires. Use a low pressure hand grease gun and lube em up.

Step #10 - Garden sprinkler underneath the Hummer to clean the bottom. Leaving it on for 30 minutes to 1hr cleans the underneath incredibly well. (Thanks to one of the guys at the Pinelands trip for this tip). Let the Hummer dry.

Step #11 - The sprinkler likely left some goop somewhere on the Hummer, so just a quick onceover with the chammoy and wipe any spots you see left.

Step #12 - Auto Glass Cleaner on the widows, inside and out.

Step #13 - Bug remover for the parts that even the pressure washer couldn't get.

Step #14 - If you have any tar, a tar remover or WD-40 removes tar quite well.

Total time it takes me to do all of this is about 3 hours. Pretty relaxing might I add.

Hope this helps all who need it.

-Ben

I've got some advice for everyone. Two or three, different, but related items:

1. If using a pressure washer, be most careful to never point it at the cooling stack. Most pressure washers have sufficient power to bend the fins. There is a tool called a fin comb that you can use to straighten 'em up if they are bent.

2. Anywhere where the environment is corrosive (such as in the north when salt is used on roads, or near the coast) you must check your oil cooler on a regular basis. The cooler is made of steel and it will, and does, rust. I've fixed two of them so far, both with identical failures. A recommendation is to, on an annual basis, clean and paint both ends of the oil cooler. Most leaks happen in the bottom six inches in the header pipes. The top section (trans cooler) seems to be more rugged.

3. I was amazed at how much dirt and junk was between the oil cooler and the radatior! We're talking major clogging here, not just a few bits of leaves. Recommendations: first put some window screen over the entire stack to keep larger stuff from falling in. Second lift the stack and clean the radator off. You do not have to discharge the A/C, just lift the A/C condensor and tie it with string to the hood. It will move about six inches up but be careful not to over stress it. When disconnecting the oil cooler, be careful not to break the input/output lines, use two wrenches and a lot of care.

Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
1995 White NA Hummer Wagon