I now have the military rear bumper, military tire carrier, and (replica) military can carrier. The main reason that I went with the mil parts is that I also pull a military trailer, and the mil tire and can carriers can be opened without unhitching the trailer. This is very important because I have a wagon, and access to the rear would be blocked if I couldn't swing the carriers to open the doors.

I am very happy with the carrier that Ron built. Installation was easy, and it all looks very professional. Installation on a civilian bumper would require drilling some additional holes in the bumper. (These holes and the CARC paint are the only differences between the mil and civ "air-lift" bumpers.)

Since the carriers block two of the three rear marker lights on my Hummer, I decided to move the lights to the top of the rear, above the "ambulance style" rear doors. This was fairly simple to do. I extended the wiring harness, drilled a few holes and re-mounted the lights. Looks quite good now, and I am legal once again.

The wires were re-routed as follows:

• follow existing harness back towards right rear tail/brake light assembly.

• enlarge one of the "tail gate chain" mounting holes inside the rear fender.

• fish the wires up, through the hole, and out into the interior of the rear area where the fender is close to the rear doors (there is already an opening in this area).

• route wire up and around the rear doors, to the center, above the doors - cable was secured along this route by using the rear door hinge mounting screws along the vertical, and the upper latch mounting screws at the top.

• drilled a hole in the center, above the doors, from the outside of the truck.

• drilled a hole in the inside of the truck, just below the hole from previous step (NOTE: the hole drilled from the outside is above the headliner - drill the second holl from the inside and fish the wires through).

• added a gromet to the outside hole, connected the wires to the lights, and mounted the lights (used sheet metal screws, into the steel top).

All of the wiring was protected using the corregated plastic wire harness stuff available from most auto supply houses.

If anyone else is interested in doing this, I would be happy to provide additional details.

Dave Breggin
'95 Diesel Wagon